Transaction or basket size? Kiabi and Primark take different routes Clutch Fire

Is the outlook for the French apparel sector really as bleak as it seems? According to a presentation held on 23 September by Worldpanel by Numerator, the reality may be more nuanced. The firm, which analyzes consumer spending behavior, shared its latest insights into the state of France’s fashion industry — and some brands appear to be holding steady in today’s challenging environment.

The market for new items indeed continues to shrink, and consumer surveys indicate a trend already evident in 2024: declining footfall in shops, offset by higher average basket sizes.

At the retailer level, Worldpanel observes that Intersport remains the market leader with a 6.3% share, ahead of Decathlon and Kiabi, which hold 3.9% and 3.1%, respectively. They are followed by Leclerc, Galeries Lafayette, and Gémo, with market shares of 2.8%, 2.5%, and 2.1%, respectively. Next come Zara, La Halle, H&M, Zalando, Carrefour, Vinted, Amazon, Chaussea, Nike, Auchan, Primark, Armand Thiery, Celio, and Courir, all with market shares between 1% and 2%.

Bricks-and-mortar retail thus retains its central role, with different types of players depending on geography. Worldpanel notes, however, that the online share should exceed 22%, compared with 21% in 2024, driven in particular by the rise of a player like Temu, especially in rural areas and medium-sized towns. The digital dimension should not be underestimated, particularly in terms of consumers’ relationships with social media. While 37% of consumers get their information via social media, only 17% use it as a shopping channel — a practice that could change with the development of TikTok Shop in France.

The service, closely monitored by French and European authorities, could enable certain brands to expand their digital presence.

But for Worldpanel’s Fashion team, led by Hélène Janicaud, growth opportunities exist both online and offline. In this respect, Worldpanel’s new survey of the brands most purchased by the French, based on volumes, showcases brand dynamics beyond retail banner networks.

Kiabi’s strength

Large retail networks inevitably dominate this ranking, with Kiabi at the top. The northern French chain recorded 44 million transactions, a 3.6% increase from the previous survey, with an average of 3.4 items per basket. It is ahead of Primark, Decathlon, Tissaia and Gémo. “We see a diversity of brands and business models in this top five, with specialised national players, but also food retail (GSA) with Tissaia and a sports player with Decathlon, which shows that fashion today is a playground for everyone.”

This diversity of profiles is reflected in the top 15, where H&M and Zara rub shoulders with Nike, Adidas, Dim, Shein, Zeeman and the mass-market brands Tex (Carrefour) and Inextenso (Auchan).

This diversity also brings a range of approaches to meeting consumer expectations. Volume can be achieved through the number of transactions and/or the average number of items per basket.

“We see that not all brands play on the same lever. At Kiabi, it’s really the number of transactions, with 44 million a year. In contrast, for Primark, which ranks second, it’s only 20 million,” explains Lydia Rabine, Worldpanel’s customer experience manager for the apparel industry. “Conversely, Primark plays on the number of items per basket, with 4.8 items versus 3.4 at Kiabi.”

Strategies, therefore, vary depending on positioning and network. Decathlon leverages the fact that it attracts French families. Zara stands out for its high purchase frequency, thanks in particular to its expertise in refreshing collections.

From entry-level labels to fashion brands, via GSA brands and sportswear, this top 15 features a wide variety of players. But they all share the ability to meet the needs of the whole family and are most often multi-category.

Above all, nine of them have managed to generate growth in France since the start of the year: Kiabi, Decathlon, Primark, Gémo, Shein, La Halle, Zeeman, Adidas and Zara.

What are the leader’s strengths? Kiabi recorded a 3.6% rise in transactions, increased its share of business outside the sales periods (+2.7 points), and its bricks-and-mortar activity (+1.7 points). The chain also increased the number of items purchased per visit by 3.2%, despite a drop in shopping frequency. Above all, Kiabi went after new customers, notably younger, childless shoppers, even though its traditional core target is families. This drive to recruit new customers lies at the heart of the momentum behind the growing brands.

The playbook of growing brands

And this is the key finding of this study. In total, Worldpanel analyzed 230 brands with a market share of at least 0.2% in France. According to the team’s analysis, in 2025, 52% of these brands have seen growth in their volumes. “This shows that growth is not for everyone — far from it. Over the last four years, concerns have arisen regarding one brand in two, and it requires a significant amount of effort. That may not sound like much, but in food it’s closer to 40% of brands that manage to grow. We looked into this, and recruitment is a key driver. More than half of brands will benefit from increased purchase frequency. But for more than eight out of ten brands, growth will come from recruiting new buyers.”

There’s no one-size-fits-all formula for achieving volume growth. According to Worldpanel, 20 brands have stood out for their significant increases in sales volume. These include major players such as Kiabi, Shein, Primark, and Temu, as well as brands like Only, Calzedonia, Kappa, Umbro, Uniqlo, Armand Thiery, Skechers, and Plus — a textile label sold through food retailers like Intermarché and Carrefour Market. On average, these brands reported a 19% increase in total volume, driven by a 7.2% rise in household penetration, a 6% increase in store footfall, and a 4.7% gain in average basket size.

“The first takeaway from these brands with strong volume growth is that three-quarters have enjoyed solid, sustainable growth over several years. However, in a strained consumer environment, we also sought to determine whether pricing and promotional strategies contributed to this growth. Indeed, 11 out of 20 are positioned as affordable, and 13 lean far more on sales and promotions than the rest of the market. But that also means 9 out of 20 are not positioned at the entry level and are still generating growth. And most of them — 12 out of 20 — have gone out and recruited new customers, mainly among Generation X and millennials, i.e., working-age consumers. This holds true across both modest and affluent profiles. Finally, the direct link matters: 15 brands offer direct sales.”

Focus on Plus, Uniqlo and Skechers

The specific case studies suggest that brands making headway have both consolidated their expertise in their market segment and developed new sources of appeal in response to competition. Plus, for example, posted an 11.9% increase in the average basket and a 3.3% rise in the number of transactions. “It’s a brand with a highly distinctive positioning: it’s a national brand, but 97% of it is sold through food superstores. Running the textile department is very different from tinned goods or washing powder. The brand brings emotional appeal and desirability. A more ready-to-wear approach adds value to the aisle. On average, it is 6% more attractive than the own-label offer. This approach didn’t really exist on the market.”

Uniqlo, whose store network remains limited in France, is making strong progress. Ranked 47th among the most purchased brands, the Japanese retailer saw transactions jump by more than 26% to 4.4 million. While its average basket contracted by 3.6%, purchase frequency rose to twice a year per buyer (+13.7%).

Uniqlo’s growth strategy centers on attracting more buyers. As one of the sector’s standout performers, the brand builds on its mastery of retail fundamentals. Its products are known for quality, with an emphasis on materials like cotton and cashmere, offered at relatively accessible prices.

niqlo also invests heavily in technology, without compromising on affordability. Unlike traditional fast-fashion players, the brand positions itself as a purveyor of high-quality basics available in a wide array of colors. It also excels in retail execution, with strong store layouts and locations that benefit from high foot traffic,” says Lydia Rabine. “However, since Uniqlo doesn’t typically follow trends, it is increasingly energizing its collections through pop culture. Currently, it’s leveraging the popularity of the Labubu character and launching collaborations with designers like Jonathan Anderson and artists such as Kaws. These initiatives help Uniqlo connect with a broader range of customer profiles.” Reflecting a more mature market presence, the brand is now gaining traction outside major metropolitan areas and among households with more modest incomes.

Finally, the American footwear brand Skechers has achieved a significant breakthrough in terms of volume in recent months. Ranked 81st by Worldpanel, the brand saw a 22.5% increase in transactions and a 2.9% rise in the number of items per basket.

Skechers has made a strong return to the spotlight, with distribution primarily through online pure players, sporting goods chains, out-of-town retail parks and independent stores. The brand has chosen to focus on functional innovation — for example, hands-free slip-on shoes — while building visibility through celebrity collaborations. Its core audience remains the value-driven middle class, generally around age 50. Still, recent campaigns, such as its partnership with singer Doja Cat, have successfully attracted younger, more trend-conscious shoppers.

Ultimately, the growing brands have nailed the fundamentals of retail: distribution aligned with brand positioning and value for money that meets customer expectations. They have then strengthened their identity through credible extensions, showcasing know-how, technology or partnerships with artists or other brands to attract new consumer profiles without alienating loyal customers.