Luxury reshapes Milan’s Fashion Quadrilateral with wave of new boutiques Clutch Fire

Saint Laurent, Fendi, Celine, Valentino, Dries Van Noten, Alberta Ferretti, Plan C, JW Anderson ans Ports 1961: Here’s a non-exhaustive list of the prestigious openings slated for Milan Fashion Week, which kicks off on Tuesday, September 23. These successive inaugurations are reshaping the luxury landscape at the heart of the Lombardy capital, in the famous Quadrilatero della Moda and its surrounding streets, bringing high-end brands together. The momentum attests to the renewed dynamism of the upmarket industry, signalling a clear bet on a sector rebound.

Dries Van Noten

Dries Van Noten arrives in Milan, establishing its very first address in the fashionable Brera district, at 11 Via Brera, a historic cobbled lane in the city centre. It follows the “Gallery” format, already unveiled in Paris and Brussels: a 50-square-metre jewel box devoted to fragrance, beauty and accessories.

With its vaulted ceilings, stone walls and patina, the store preserves the spirit of the 19th-century palazzo that houses it, while exuding a chic, discreet atmosphere conducive to discovery. Notable design pieces decorating the space include a splendid Venini glass chandelier from the 1970s and a Silvio Berrone desk from the 1950s.

Saint Laurent

Standing across three floors at 8 Via Montenapoleone, Saint Laurent’s new flagship does not go unnoticed. The boutique has undergone a complete transformation and expansion, almost doubling in size (nearly 1,300 square metres). It unveils, for the first time in Italy, the new store concept devised by creative director Anthony Vaccarello, “while paying homage to Italian craftsmanship and innovative design.”

Marble, ceramics, bronze mouldings and eucalyptus wood are among the precious materials used to create an atmosphere that is both glamorous and contemporary. Works of art, furniture and other design pieces by Gio Ponti, Carlo Scarpa, Osvaldo Borsani, Marco Zanuso, Aldo Tura, Gaetano Pesce and Vincenzo de Cotiis, among others, are dispersed throughout the space, as in a chic Milanese apartment.

Valentino

A little further along, at 20 Via Montenapoleone, Valentino’s historic address—which first opened in 1969—reopened in early September after a thorough makeover. Entirely clad in white with contrasting black details, the contemporary store spans three levels and 1,170 square metres. Large green velvet sofas, Art Deco lighting and brass furnishings add a glamorous touch, reflecting the eclectic aesthetic of the house’s creative director, Alessandro Michele.

The boutique is arranged around two distinct entrances, leading respectively to the womenswear and menswear areas, with women’s ready-to-wear, shoes, bags, small leather goods, eyewear and beauty products on one side, and menswear with all accessories on the other.

JW Anderson

In the neighbouring street, Via Sant’Andrea at number 16, JW Anderson is also preparing to unveil its new look. Inaugurated in May 2023, Irish designer Jonathan Anderson’s jewel-box boutique is undergoing a metamorphosis that mirrors the transformation imposed on his own house since his appointment as artistic director of Christian Dior for men and women.

The idea now is to offer a lifestyle proposition, featuring everything from knitwear to designer chairs and ceramic objects, with an emphasis on craftsmanship. The label’s new stores, like the one recently unveiled in London, are being transformed into true cabinets of curiosities.

Plan C

Launched in 2018 by Carolina Castiglioni after thirteen years at Marni (the house founded by her mother Consuelo Castiglioni), Italian ready-to-wear label Plan C opens its very first boutique, on Via Manzoni, at number 21. With its timeless, design-led fashion and distinctive details, the luxury designer label, which in just a few years has won over some twenty leading multi-brand stores worldwide, including La Samaritaine and Merci in Paris, is shifting up a gear.

Called “Plan C Frame”, the 380-square-metre store, with its geometric forms and lively palette, was conceived by the designer, together with the April platform and architecture practice (AB)Normal, as a concept store organised around differently coloured zones to accommodate a variety of worlds.

For example, a pale-green jewel-box pop-up showcases Aliita jewellery by Venezuelan-Dutch designer Cynthia Vilchez, who is celebrating the 10th anniversary of her brand, while the large central red spiral staircase leading to the basement level, designed in tiers to host talks, has been transformed into a large bookshop and magazine kiosk.

“It’s a lively, dynamic, interesting modular space, in the image of Plan C. The idea is to host various brands, designers and categories, which will rotate regularly,” explained Castiglioni.

“This boutique represents an important step for us. This investment is intended to make us better known to the general public and to increase our audience.”

Fendi and Celine, with Christian Dior to follow

After last spring’s grand unveilings of impressive new concepts by Bulgari, Louis Vuitton and Tiffany & Co., still on the famous Via Montenapoleone, LVMH is rolling out a series of eagerly awaited openings this season. Starting with Fendi, which is inaugurating its Palazzo Fendi Milano with a string of window displays, located at the end of the thoroughfare and extending under the porticoes of Corso Matteotti.

The new address occupies a majestic six-storey building that pays homage to Milan’s architectural codes. The space houses a leather and fur workshop to showcase the house’s artisanal expertise, and a restaurant opened in partnership with Langosteria.

Meanwhile, the Celine boutique at number 25 on the same street will shortly reopen with a new layout and enlarged space. Christian Dior is also planning to open a major space in Milan in the coming months.

Alberta Ferretti

Alberta Ferretti is opening its new flagship on the street parallel to Via Montenapoleone, at 26 Via della Spiga. Marked by the renewed vision of Lorenzo Serafini, who took over its creative direction last year, the historic Italian house presents a new layout concept developed in synergy between Re-Design Studio, led by Riccardo Furlani, and AAFW – Alessandro Fantetti Workshop.

Spanning two levels and 250 square metres, the flagship features a restrained, minimalist décor in shades of white.

“The choice of materials favours neutral tones and soft surfaces, in dialogue with integrated lighting, offering a soft, natural effect. Every part of the boutique contributes to a welcoming and intimate experience, while retaining the spirit of timeless elegance typical of the house,” the company summarised in a press release.

Ports 1961

Nearby, also on Via della Spiga at number 8, the flagship store of the luxury womenswear brand Ports 1961 has just opened. Spread over two floors and 200 square metres, the refined space is characterised by a restrained palette, geometric forms and carefully selected materials.

Founded by Japanese-Canadian designer Luke Tanabe in Toronto in 1961, and now owned by Ports International Enterprises, a company linked to Hong Kong’s PCD Group, the house, whose creative studio is located in Milan’s Brera district, entrusted its creative direction to Francesco Bertolini last year, and this opening marks an important milestone.