More than a store: Stone Island’s Hangzhou flagship and the quest for community Clutch Fire

The opening of the Stone Island flagship store in Hangzhou coincides with a period of profound transformation in consumer behavior. The return of rationalism and the rise of the performance wardrobe concept mean people are increasingly valuing the long-term worth of clothing, material innovation, and a sense of community over simply following trends.

For Robert Triefus, the visit was a true “first meeting.” Despite his three decades of experience in the luxury industry and numerous trips to China since 2000, his first trip to Hangzhou in 25 years was particularly exciting. As the CEO of Stone Island, his enthusiasm stemmed not just from the city’s blend of tradition and vibrancy, but also from a keen observation of the subcultural waves currently unfolding in China.

On a scorching autumn afternoon in Jiangnan, FashionNetwork.com sat with Robert in a teahouse by Hangzhou’s West Lake. Over cups of West Lake classic green tea Longjing, we discussed the essence of the Stone Island brand and its future development.

FashionNetwork.com: Following Beijing and Shanghai, Stone Island has selected Hangzhou as the location for its large-scale flagship store. What does this indicate about the brand’s strategic shift into a new phase in the Chinese market?

Robert Triefus: I particularly admire the beautiful contradiction in China — the way the past and future are so deeply connected. When we decide where to open stores, we always start with the most important, signature cities.

Of all the places I’ve visited, Hangzhou is the one that best symbolizes this blend of heritage and innovation. It’s a city where tradition and the future exist in a state of both contrast and close connection. This is a perfect match for Stone Island’s brand ethos, which honors its archive while remaining committed to material research and technical innovation.

Additionally, Hangzhou is easily accessible, especially from Shanghai. We’re also taking this opportunity to bring some of our most loyal customers here to celebrate not just the opening, but the city itself. They are experiencing its tradition while also seeing our innovation reflected in the new store, which—just like our collections—represents our commitment to pioneering new materials.

FN: OMA/AMO has designed a highly architectural and experimental retail space. In your view, what role does a physical space play in telling a brand’s story and building community?

RT: We have a long-standing partnership with OMA/AMO in Rotterdam, and Samir Bantal, one of the firm’s partners, is familiar with our brand. This collaboration enables us to ensure that all our global stores share a consistent design language, while each location retains its distinct character.

Our stores consistently feature signature materials, including our distinctive green glass, cork, and rammed earth.

We also incorporate storytelling through various screen technologies. We use these screens to project videos that tell the story of our products and our community. Our goal is to create an environment that resonates with the collection itself, allowing us to present our designs to customers in a contemporary way.

FN: In the current market environment, what are Stone Island’s core fundamentals? What specific challenges do you see in the Chinese market?

RT: Having visited China for 25 years, I’ve witnessed a remarkable evolution in consumer behavior. In the early days, Chinese fashion customers were primarily interested in logos as a symbol of status. Today, they are incredibly sophisticated and discerning. The market is complex, and customers rightly demand quality and a strong brand narrative behind their purchases.

This shift in consumer values aligns perfectly with Stone Island. Though we are still relatively new to this market, our focus on long-lasting value and innovation is highly relevant. Stone Island isn’t a traditional fashion brand; we create clothing as a solution for real life, with a legacy rooted in material innovation and technical expertise.

The enduring value of our products is evident in the vintage market, where collectors — including many here in China — actively seek out pieces from the 1980s and 1990s. This proves that from the very beginning, Stone Island has been committed to creating purposeful, high-quality items that hold their value over time.

FN: Chinese consumers are highly sensitive to performance and material innovation. How does Stone Island respond to this character?

RT: We’re not just a performance or technical apparel brand; we create a wardrobe for everyday life. Our pieces are durable, windproof, and weatherproof, designed for daily performance. We maintain extremely high levels of quality control to ensure our materials perform as expected. We understand that standards are exceptionally high in China, and we ensure our quality meets those expectations.

FN: Comparing your wealth of experience in luxury brand management, what are the similarities and differences in how brands build a community?

RT: Over the past 45 years, the Stone Island community has evolved organically, starting from various subcultures and expanding to include musicians, athletes, and artists. We are witnessing a similar natural evolution unfold in China, with the brand being adopted by a new community of collectors, musicians, and actors.

A notable difference in the Chinese market is the significant role of women. While women make up 20% of our global customers, that number rises to 30–35% in China. A large portion of these customers are buying not just for male partners but also for themselves, embracing the brand’s unisex appeal.

To reflect this growing diversity, our brand storytelling now includes a female presence, with musician Peggy Gou leading the way. We believe in building authentic connections, and our global community ambassadors, such as Steph Curry, Peggy Gou, and Chinese actor Ethan Ruan, are all people with a genuine connection to the brand. In the future, we plan to further expand our representation with more Chinese female ambassadors.

FN: Beyond its retail function, what unique experiences will this new store offer to Chinese consumers? For example, will there be exclusive customization services, limited-edition items, or opportunities for a private preview of new collections?

RT: We tell our brand story by bringing a unique experience into our stores through video and a traveling archive collection. The new store features one of our rarest and most innovative archival pieces: a supple, coat-like garment made from metal fabric.

The most technically advanced items in our collection are marked with a white badge, which symbolizes the pinnacle of our research and development. We are now making an archival item a permanent feature of our new stores to represent this ongoing commitment.

FN: From a global perspective, what have been the most crucial changes in strategy and development pace for Stone Island since its acquisition by the Moncler Group?

RT: It’s challenging for a niche brand to achieve sustained growth. Success requires three key elements: technical expertise, high-quality retail channels, and the right talent. Moncler acts as a “silent partner,” respecting Stone Island’s unique DNA and independence. They provide crucial support in three key areas: First, we have benefited from Moncler’s powerful technical and logistics systems. Second, we have received support with retail site selection, which helps our global expansion and brand building. Finally, we have brought in key executives from the Moncler Group, injecting valuable experience and momentum into our operations.

FN: What role do you see the Chinese market playing in Stone Island’s global growth? What are your specific plans for the next two years?

RT: The brand is prioritizing quality over quantity, focusing on optimizing its presence in key, high-potential markets rather than pursuing rapid, widespread expansion. In China, we will open a small number of new stores, specifically in cities like Hangzhou, which have been identified as having strong, energetic subcultures that resonate with the brand’s identity.

In established markets like Europe and the U.S., the focus is on refining the retail footprint. This involves relocating existing stores to better, higher-profile locations (as seen in Paris and Vienna) to showcase the new store concept and enhance the brand’s image.

Last year, we internalized and launched a new website, simultaneously introducing our WeChat mini-program. The digital space is also very important to us, and we want to ensure that we can offer our clients a seamless experience worldwide — from our physical stores to digital engagement.

Written by Sissi Chu